As Southern Californians, let’s face it, we’re spoiled. Not only are we envied by most of the world for our weather, diverse beauty, and lifestyle, but as songwriter Randy Newman says: “we’ve got surfing, too.” And our embarrassment of riches doesn’t end there….we even have islands.
photo credit: National Park Service
Off the coast of Ventura and Santa Barbara is the Channel Islands National Park, an archipelago comprised of five islands: Anacapa, Santa Cruz, Santa Rosa, San Miguel, and Santa Barbara. There are three other Channel Islands not part of the national park, and the most famous is Santa Catalina, — that’s another Window on the World travel destination in the near future.
Anacapa is one of the smallest and the closest of the Channel Islands, just 14 nautical miles from Ventura, and only 11 nautical miles from Oxnard’s Port Hueneme. You can see the Channel Islands from the coast of Santa Barbara and Ventura – and like all islands, they seem to beckon you to discover their secrets.
I heeded their call and set off from Ventura for my first foray to the Channel Islands on an overcast morning, destination: Anacapa Island.
Upon disembarking at Anacapa, you will have to climb 157 steps to reach the surface of the island but it’s worth the effort. photo credit: National Park Service
Anthropological History
These islands were populated by Chumash Indians for thousands of years. They relied on the surrounding waters for their food as well as trade. They used the sea’s shells and stones for trade as well as for making tools. From coastal redwood trees, the Chumash built canoes that enabled them to travel between the islands.
Until 1542 when Spanish explorer Juan Rodriquez Cabrillo happened on San Miguel Island, the Chumash inhabited and thrived in these waters for centuries.
Cabrillo claimed the Channel Islands as part of the Spanish territories and in 1821 they became part of Mexico. With California’s statehood in 1850, the islands became part of the United States.
Rugged land formations add to the visual enchantment of the Channel Islands. photo credit: National Park Service
Anacapa consists of three small islets which were formed by volcanic lava that erupted under the sea about 16 million years ago. The islets named East, Middle and West Islands together are less than 5 miles long, but are inaccessible from each other except by boat.
A World Away in 60 Minutes
Anacapa is the most visited of the Channel Islands due to its close proximity. Although Anacapa’s total land area is only about one square mile; compare that with Santa Cruz, the largest in the national park, at just under 100 square miles.
Island Packers is a boat service that offers daily excursions from Oxnard, Ventura and Santa Barbara harbors. It takes just an hour to be transported by boat to Anacapa from Oxnard and an hour and-a-half from Ventura.
The journey will add to your sense of place and heightens your anticipation. Sightings of dolphins, sharks and whales during the short ocean voyage is a special part of the experience. We had numerous sightings of magnificent creatures which brought shrieks of delight and excitement from the passengers during our crossing of the Santa Barbara Channel. The scores of nonchalant sea lions and harbor seals lazing on the rocky shores barely took notice. It’s all a day in the life for them.
The trained volunteers of the Channel Islands Naturalist Corps on board provide passengers with interesting and educational commentary so that by the time you reach the islands, you have a greater appreciation for the area’s ecological and cultural significance.
In Spring, the bright yellow coreopsis carpets the island and can be seen all the way from the mainland. photo credit: Tim Hauf Photography
A Living Laboratory
About one third of all cetacean species (aquatic mammals) found worldwide can be seen in the waters around the Santa Barbara Channel Islands. This unique marine habitat is one of the reasons that led Congress to establish the Channel Islands National Park in 1980 “in order to protect the nationally significant natural, scenic, wildlife, marine, ecological, archaeological, cultural, and scientific values of the Channel Islands.”
photo credit: National Park Service
From December till March, this channel is in the migration route for about 20,000 gray whales. They travel through these waters en route to Baja California to give birth. But they often linger in the area to feed on the kelp beds which makes for ideal whale watching. We didn’t see any gray whales but we saw a blue whale, a large school of playful dolphins, and a blue shark; how do you put a price on that?!
photo credit: Tim Hauf Photography
The biodiversity of Anacapa is extraordinary; there are 265 species of plants on this island including two endemic chicories and a few Catalina cherry, island oak, and toyon trees found on East Anacapa. In addition, there are twenty plant and eight bird species found only on the Channel Islands. Anacapa also is host to the largest breeding colony of Western gulls in the world.
Island Adventure
After a scenic and exhilarating trip, we disembarked at Landing Cove on East Anacapa. Once you arrive at Landing Cove, you’ll find out just how steep Anacapa’s bluffs are. You have to climb up 157 steps to reach the land surface but it’s worth it. Your first stop should be the Visitors Center which will give you useful tips and information to enhance your visit.
Although the island is small, it offers a diverse range of fun activities. With only two miles of hiking trails, what the island lacks in size, it makes up ten-fold in scenery. Other recreational options on this eco-treasure island include picnicking, snorkeling, diving, kayaking and swimming.
For birdwatchers, it’s a veritable paradise with an enormous bird population of both marine and land birds. The Channel Islands are a popular spot for exploring the world beneath the surface, too. Divers and snorkelers can discover a colorful display of blue rockfish, garibaldi, bluebanded goby and many others.
Anacapa’s craggy coastal topography features 135 sea caves, some are perfect for exploring by kayak with experienced guides. For beaches, East Anacapa has some that are accessible with Island Packers. There is overnight camping on Anacapa but reservations are required. One note of caution: there is no potable water on Anacapa so whether you’re day-tripping or camping overnight, you must bring own drinking water.
photo credit: Tim Hauf Photography
If you have yet to visit California’s enchanting islands, the intrigue of island adventure and the thrill of discovery await you at Anacapa.
To plan your Channel Islands excursion:
Channel Islands National Park
www.nps.gov/chis/
Island Packers