If you’ve never been to Tuscany, rest assured, everything you’ve heard about it is true. And if you’ve been lucky enough to have travelled there, you know it’s true. Tuscany is a sun-kissed magical slice of Italy.
My husband Alex and I arrived in Florence at the 14th Century Hotel Monna Lisa (sic) where we immediately felt at home. Not sure why they spell Monna that way but who were we to quibble? The Hotel Monna Lisa is a sprawling palazzo of which parts were constructed in the 14th Century and for centuries has been in the possession of renowned ecumenical and artistic families.
At the time of our visit, the palazzo was the family home of the Contessa Dupré. The hotel is like a museum with art displayed throughout the palazzo, including works by one of the Countess’ ancestors, the neo-classical sculptor Giovanni Dupré (1817-1882). And, of course, there are lots of Mona Lisa images, some are humorous and irreverent. The palazzo was turned into a hotel more than 50 years ago while the Contessa maintained a private residence onsite. Sadly, the elderly Contessa has since passed on.
The Hotel Monna (sic) LIsa in Florence is a beautifully-preserved 14th century palazzo.
Revelry Under the Tuscan Sun
While in Florence we connected with our six friends who we would be traveling with during our week of revelry in Tuscany. At the invitation of our long-time friends Greg and Katherine Hough, we would be spending a week at a villa in the Tuscan town of Cortona. After everyone arrived in Florence, all eight of us convened for cocktails and a fantastic dinner at a local bistro. We were all in a buoyant mood toasting the start of our Tuscan adventure.
Part of our intrepid group in Florence (Greg and Katherine - 2nd and 3rd from left) celebrating the start of our Tuscan sojourn with a bounty of local delights.
The following morning a car and driver picked us up promptly after breakfast. As a noted chief art curator of finely-crafted exhibitions for more than 40 years with a reputation for meticulous attention to detail, this trip was no exception; Katherine had planned a fabulous week for us in Cortona.
The Chianti Road
Although Cortona is located only about 90 minutes from Florence, Katherine had planned a day-long road trip through the picturesque Chianti region. The journey provided us with our first glimpses of the quintessential Tuscan landscape -- rolling hills dotted with endless vineyards and charming old farmhouses. The vineyards had been harvested the month before but the October golden hues of the vineyards set against tall cypress trees were postcard perfect. The Chianti Road is a circular 68-mile route home to some of Italy’s most famous vineyards and produces some of the country’s finest world-renowned wine.
The Chianti Road, a circular 68-mile route, winds through a region of memorable views and stunning landscape.
We arrived for lunch in the charming medieval village of Sienna. The Siennese cuisine did not disappoint and the local wine was a perfect pairing. After lunch we were able to stroll through the town and enjoy some of its many charms. In the center of Sienna sits its piazza The Campo which is the setting of Italy’s most famous festival -- the Palio, an annual equestrian race and colorful pageant. Among the other notable sights is the magnificent Duomo and the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo which houses works of art and masterpieces that will leave you spellbound.
The Cathedral di Siena, dating back to early 12th Century, houses priceless relics and masterpieces
Cortona: Mother of Troy
We arrived in Cortona in the late afternoon just as the autumn sun was waning and made our way to Casa San Marco, our home for the next week. The Casa San Marco is a 16th Century home with spacious living quarters and balconies with sweeping views to Lake Trasimeno in the distance below.
The romance of Cortona’s ambiance will leave an imprint on your heart.
The next day we were anxious to explore Cortona’s heart and soul. The town is a storied village with history that pre-dates the Romans. The Etruscans are thought to have built the town’s first ancient walls in the 4th Century. Considered one of Italy’s oldest towns, who could argue with that distinction when it claims to be the Mother of Troy and the Grandmother of Rome??
Cortona’s 12th Century Palazzo Comunale (City Hall) is a vital hub of activity for local residents including for weddings.
We soon learned why many Tuscan villages are called “hilltowns.” Cortona is perched on a circular series of steep roads that wind around to the top of the hill. The town’s center, the Piazza della Republica and Via Nazionale, the main shopping street in Cortona, are the only flat area in the entire town, so you can be assured of getting your daily 10,000 steps traversing the steep byways. We stopped complaining after seeing the local elderly ladies making daily treks with their groceries. By watching them, we learned that the trick is a slow pace and frequent pauses. While it will leave you breathless, it does help justify an indulgence of Cortona’s excellent gelato.
Cortona is situated at the top of a hill, reached by a series of steep roads, but the view is rewarding.
Made famous by the book and film Under the Tuscan Sun by Frances Mayes who has a home nearby, Cortona seems relatively unfazed by its fame. It had been a popular destination long before Under the Tuscan Sun which only underscored something the locals have always known – Cortona is a tiny but special gem.
For such a tiny town, it’s astounding that there are 33 churches in Cortona, each of them contain awe-inspiring art and priceless relics. But to really experience the special rhythm of Cortona, you need only to sit in the town’s piazza where locals observe the nightly cultural ritual of the passeggiata (definition: a traditional evening stroll in the central plaza by a town's residents). On market days, this is particularly a colorful spectacle of Italian life.
Tuscan Gastronomy
Our week in Cortona was splendid, filled with planned activities and plenty of downtime to read, dream, or explore. One day we had a tour to another wine-producing hilltown – Montepulciano. It is the highest of the hilltowns and offers commanding views of the alluring Tuscan countryside. We sampled and purchased some of its wonderful famous local wine -- Vino Nobile di Montepulciano.
Back at Casa San Marco with our local wine, we were well prepared for one of the highlights of our week in Cortona – a hands-on cooking demonstration that Katherine had arranged. Ivan, a local chef, and his sous chef, arrived laden with all the ingredients to prepare a multi-course Italian feast.
A multi-course Italian feast being prepared for us in the villa’s kitchen.
Our feast began with a gorgeous antipasto and freshly baked foccacia bread. The team worked so fast and efficiently that in short order they produced a menu that none of us will forget – handmade potato gnocchi in a marvelous fresh tomato sauce, a simple but sensational rosemary and garlic roast chicken with roasted potatoes, and a tiramisu that would make you weak in your knees.
Walking it Off
Good thing walking around Cortona is a robust workout. There was so much to see — divine art, historic architecture, and, of course, shopping. The town is compact, thus, we were able to walk to all the breathtaking town’s sights.
The Medici Fortezza, a fortified compound, was built for Cosimo Medici in 1556-1561.
Our home away from home at Casa San Marco.
After such a memorable week in Tuscany, leaving was bittersweet; the only consolation was to vow: “I’ll be back.”